It has been far too long since my last, things have been a little crazy in the past few months with a new project in the works and a few new menus in the restaurant. I have finally found some time to do what I love, make pasta! I do not know why I like tortellini over ravioli but I suppose it’s the same reason why some people like fettuccine over linguine.
Sweet corn season is right around the corner and I cannot wait, it is one of my favorite vegetables. These little tortellini’s pack quite a punch with their Parmesan and herb enriched corn center. The filling is nice and smooth and just melts when you bite through the pasta.
3C Fresh Cut Corn Kernels (about three ears of corn)
1/2ea White Onion (Reserve other half for corn stock)
2C Finely Grated Parmesan
2T Heavy Cream
1T Champagne Vinegar
1T Chopped Chives
Once you remove the kernels from the cob of corn be sure to save the husk and the cob to make a corn stock. The husk has a much stronger corn flavor than the actual kernels so I usually add a half white onion to the stock and simmer for a couple of hours.
- Thin slice the white onion and saute in the butter until it is soft.
- Add the corn kernels and cook until soft.
- Combine the remaining ingredients and the sautéed corn in a vita-mix and puree until smooth.
- Place the corn puree in a bowl, add chives, and season, then place in the fridge until cooled.
Husk and cob of three ears of corn
Half of a white onion
Enough water to cover
- Combine all and simmer for two hours
- Strain and store in the fridge
1 batch Pasta Dough
Egg wash for sealing the tortellini
Tortellini’s are fun and very easy to make once you get the hang of it. Start by putting your corn filling in a piping bag or in a plastic bag to make it easier to pipe onto the pasta.
- Start by rolling out the pasta dough to the third largest setting
- Brush the sheet of pasta with the egg wash.
- Using a circle cutter, cut out pasta circles, you will want to cut them bigger than you think, about 2.5″ to 3″.
- Pipe the corn filling onto the center of the pasta circles. Be sure to leave yourself some room around the edges to make folding and bending the pasta easier.
- Fold the pasta in half to create being careful to not let the filling seep out in the process. You will end up with a half-moon shaped filled pasta. Pinch the edges to ensure they have sealed properly then, using your finger, spread a little egg wash on the corner of the half circle. You will see this in the picture below.
- Here comes the hard part, place the pasta in your fingertips with the rounded part toward your palm and the center of the filling side against your ring finger.
- With the other hand wrap the pasta around your ring finger, connecting the two corners the were egg washed.
- The edges should turn upwards on their own but you can help them in order to get the desired shape. Pinch the two corners that just came together, and viola! you have corn filled tortellini. It is important that you go through this whole process fairly quickly to avoid drying out the pasta dough. If it dries, it will crack and tear when you try to wrap it around your finger.
- Once it has been formed you can let them sit and dry on their own to allow for easier handling.
For assembly, bring a pot of water to a boil then reduce to a simmer. Cook the pasta until it begins to float and then remove from the water and let dry for a couple of minutes. In a saute pan melt a tablespoon of butter and saute the tortellini for a few seconds, de-glaze with white wine then add about one cup of corn stock. Simmer the tortellini until you have reduced the stock by 3/4 the amount. Season and serve.
The tortellini goes great with spicy greens, such as arugula and watercress, and any kind of dried cured meat, I used coppa.
I love scallops and I love pasta even more and this dish is light and satisfying. Grilled scallops have a completely different flavor over pan seared scallops, you don’t get the nice crisp crust but you get the flavor of the grill which is just as great. The micro greens are grown for us in Sisters, Oregon and we receive them weekly in their grow trays and we clip them when we need them, we dressed them with a nice blended balsamic and local hazelnut oil.
~1/2ea Butternut Squash
2.25oz Grated Mahon Cheese
5.29oz Cremeux de Bourgogne or any triple cream soft ripened cheese
1ea Meyer Lemon, juiced
~5T Panko/Bread Crumbs
- Preheat your oven to 350°F
- Let the cheeses stand at room temperature to soften
- Cut your butternut squash in half and remove the seeds, dry roast until the flesh is soft
- Remove the squash from the oven and let cool. Once cooled scoop out the insides and place them in a food processor. Puree for a few minutes until very smooth.
- Place the squash puree in a bowl. Remove the rind from the soft cheese and place it in a separate bowl. Using a fork stir the cheese until a smooth puree is formed.
- Add the grated mahon, followed by half the squash puree, mix well. Add the remaining squash puree and mix well.
- Add the Meyer lemon juice and the egg, mix well. Add bread crumbs until the mix comes begins to thicken. Let stand for five minutes to allow the bread crumbs to hydrate.
- You may or may not need more bread crumbs depending on how much water was in your squash. You are looking for a filling that can be piped out of a piping bag but not toothpaste consistency.
- Check for salt, I did not need any in mine as the soft ripened cheese had plenty in it.
1 batch Butternut Squash Filling (Above)
- Beat the egg with a little water, place filling into a pastry bag.
- To make these pyramid shaped pastas, roll out your pasta dough into sheets, the sheets should be the width of the roller (5.5″). You can use a fluted cutter or just a knife, cut the dough down the length in the center.
- You can see my rolling process for ravioli’s here
- Now you have to strips about 2.25″ across, make multiple cuts down the sheet to create squares.
- Very lightly brush the squares with the egg, if you use too much egg the pasta will not stick together, so its best to wipe the excess egg off of yuor pastry brush before applying to the pasta.
- Pipe about 1/3oz of filling onto the center of the squares.
- Take all four corners of the pasta and join them in the center to form the peak, pinch all of the sides that meet to ensure that the filling will stay in.
- Sprinkle some flour or semolina flour onto a tray or plate. Place the fagottini on the semolina and you can either leave them out until you are ready to cook them or you can place them in the fridge. I would not recommend freezing this pasta because the filling can be very delicate and will probably break when reheated from frozen.
1/2C Heavy Cream
- Combine all and whip to soft peaks
- Scrub your beets, about one golf ball size beet per plate, with the rough side of a sponge and then rinse them to remove the dirt. Toss them in oil, S&P, roast at 350° rotating them every 20 minutes until soft and the skin can easily peel. The beets can take up to an hour to roast, once finished, peel the beets and slice them to 1/4″ thick and cool.
- Peel the salsify and toss them in olive oil and S&P, then roast them at 350° until they feel soft in the middle, about 30 minutes. Once cooked let cool.
- Once the vegetables are roasted you can set them aside until you are ready to plate, you will reheat these about five minutes before plating.
- Preheat your oven to 450°, prepare your grill, or you can sear the scallops in a pan if it is more convenient. Put a pot of water on the stove and bring it to a boil, salt the water and drop your pasta in. Reduce heat to a simmer and let cook until the dough is soft, about 7-11 minutes.
- Once the pasta is in the water put your vegetables in the oven to reheat, season and begin cooking your scallops, once the scallops have a nice sear on both sides, remove from the pan onto a paper towel and let rest in a warm area.
- Remove your pasta and let drain, remove your vegetables and set aside.
- Begin plating to your hearts desire. I finished the plate with a nice drizzle of the balsamic and olive oil followed by the cured egg yolk.
When you are deep into citrus season you need to take advantage of everything that you have, and next to Meyer lemons, kumquats are on the top of the list for must haves during the winter months. This recipe will require a little bit of your time but the finished results is a sweet and tart marmalade with the perfect amount of rind. Kumquats can be eaten fresh, and whole, some have large seeds and others have very small seeds. They have a tart flesh and a very sweet skin and rind, when cooked together they create a perfectly balanced marmalade.
1# 4oz Kumquats
1# Orange Juice
1/2T Apple Pectin
The most tedious part about making a marmalade is peeling the oranges and cleaning the pith to ensure that you will not get a bitter product in the end. Kumquats are beneficial in that area as they can be eaten whole and they balance very nicely. They still need to be cleaned of all the seeds and cut into smaller pieces to make a palatable marmalade.
- Begin by washing your kumquats and quartering them, you can either remove the seeds as you do this or quarter all of them first and then remove the seeds, regardless, it will take a little time.
- Once they have been cleaned of the seeds, rough chop the kumquats.
- Combine half of your sugar and all of the apple pectin, set aside.
- Combine the orange juice, kumquats, water, and the remaining sugar in a large pot, turn the heat on to medium.
- Once the marmalade begins to simmer, cook for roughly five minutes, turn down the heat if necessary to maintain a simmer.
- Check to see if the kumquats are soft, if not continue to simmer until they are.
Once softened, whisk in the sugar and pectin mix.
- Simmer for another five minutes and check the consistency on frozen plate. It will set up semi-firm on the plate when ready.
This marmalade will go great on toast, foie gras, or served on a charcuterie board.