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Grilled Sea Scallops with Butternut Fagottini

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I love scallops and I love pasta even more and this dish is light and satisfying. Grilled scallops have a completely different flavor over pan seared scallops, you don’t get the nice crisp crust but you get the flavor of the grill which is just as great. The micro greens are grown for us in Sisters Oregon and we receive them weekly in their grow trays and we clip them when we need them, we dressed them with a nice blended balsamic and local hazelnut oil.

Butternut Filling

~1/2ea Butternut Squash

2.25oz Grated Mahon Cheese

5.29oz Cremeux de Bourgogne or any triple cream soft ripened cheese

1ea Meyer Lemon, juiced

~5T Panko/Bread Crumbs

1ea Egg

  • Preheat your oven to 350°F
  • Let the cheeses stand at room temperature to soften
  • Cut your butternut squash in half and remove the seeds, dry roast until the flesh is soft
  • Remove the squash from the oven and let cool. Once cooled scoop out the insides and place them in a food processor. Puree for a few minutes until very smooth.
  • Place the squash puree in a bowl. Remove the rind from the soft cheese and place it in a separate bowl. Using a fork stir the cheese until a smooth puree is formed.
  • Add the grated mahon, followed by half the squash puree, mix well. Add the remaining squash puree and mix well.
  • Add the Meyer lemon juice and the egg, mix well. Add bread crumbs until the mix comes begins to thicken. Let stand for five minutes to allow the bread crumbs to hydrate.
  • You may or may not need more bread crumbs depending on how much water was in your squash. You are looking for a filling that can be piped out of a piping bag but not toothpaste consistency.
  • Check for salt, I did not need any in mine as the soft ripened cheese had plenty in it.

Butternut Fagiottini
1 batch Egg Pasta Dough, add 1T Espelette pepper and 1t spanish paprika to get the color seen in the picture.

1 batch Butternut Squash Filling (Above)

1ea Egg

  • Beat the egg with a little water, place filling into a pastry bag.
  • To make these pyramid shaped pastas, roll out your pasta dough into sheets, the sheets should be the width of the roller (5.5″). You can use a fluted cutter or just a knife, cut the dough down the length in the center.
  • You can see my rolling process for ravioli’s here
  • Now you have to strips about 2.25″ across, make multiple cuts down the sheet to create squares.
  • Very lightly brush the squares with the egg, if you use too much egg the pasta will not stick together, so its best to wipe the excess egg off of yuor pastry brush before applying to the pasta.
  • Pipe about 1/3oz of filling onto the center of the squares.
  • Take all four corners of the pasta and join them in the center to form the peak, pinch all of the sides that meet to ensure that the filling will stay in.
  • Sprinkle some flour or semolina flour onto a tray or plate. Place the fagottini on the semolina and you can either leave them out until you are ready to cook them or you can place them in the fridge. I would not recommend freezing this pasta because the filling can be very delicate and will probably break when reheated from frozen.

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Mascarpone Foam
1/2C Heavy Cream

2T Mascarpone

TT Salt

  • Combine all and whip to soft peaks

For plating you will need roasted salsify and beets, chopped and roasted hazelnuts, micro greens, cured egg yolk, three brined scallops, a well aged balsamic and a bright olive oil.

  • Scrub your beets, about one golf ball size beet per plate, with the rough side of a sponge and then rinse them to remove the dirt. Toss them in oil, S&P, roast at 350° rotating them every 20 minutes until soft and the skin can easily peel. The beets can take up to an hour to roast, once finished, peel the beets and slice them to 1/4″ thick and cool.
  • Peel the salsify and toss them in olive oil and S&P, then roast them at 350° until they feel soft in the middle, about 30 minutes. Once cooked let cool.
  • Once the vegetables are roasted you can set them aside until you are ready to plate, you will reheat these about five minutes before plating.
  • Preheat your oven to 450°, prepare your grill, or you can sear the scallops in a pan if it is more convenient. Put a pot of water on the stove and bring it to a boil, salt the water and drop your pasta in. Reduce heat to a simmer and let cook until the dough is soft, about 7-11 minutes.
  • Once the pasta is in the water put your vegetables in the oven to reheat, season and begin cooking your scallops, once the scallops have a nice sear on both sides, remove from the pan onto a paper towel and let rest in a warm area.
  • Remove your pasta and let drain, remove your vegetables and set aside.
  • Begin plating to your hearts desire. I finished the plate with a nice drizzle of the balsamic and olive oil followed by the cured egg yolk.
 
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Posted by on January 24, 2013 in Recipes, The Lodge Restaurant

 

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Cured Egg Yolk

Grated cured egg yolk

Grated cured egg yolk

I doubt that you will find anything like this in “One Hundred Ways of Cooking Eggs“, a book originally published in 1892 by a chef with 25 years of experience, but I came across this gem of an idea in a magazine, Art Culinare about a year ago, and the base of the recipe was salt sugar and black pepper. The first time I made it I added fennel and realized that the egg yolk can pick up flavors very well. The finished product is firm, can be grated with a micro-plane, and it has a nice fatty richness that is full of flavor. I was blown away the first time that I made it, so much, that I had to make another batch. It is very simple and quick to assemble but it does take five weeks to cure, after it has been cured it can be held for a few weeks and used when needed. Cured egg yolk is best when shaved on salads or on top of fish, it is rich and heavy but the flavor is delicate.

Cured Egg Yolk

9ea Eggs

2C Kosher Salt

2C Sugar

1/2C Black Pepper

1/8C Crushed Red Pepper

1/4C Fennel Seed

  • Combine sugar and salt and mix well.
  • Combine remaining spice and grind into a coarse powder.
  • Add the ground spices to the salt and sugar mixture and blend well.

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  • Place 1/4 of the mix in a pan, you want to have about a quarter-inch of mix in the bottom of your pan.
  • Make an indent in your mix so your egg yolk has a place to land and not shift around.
  • Crack and separate the white from the yolk and place the yolk in the mix. Once all the yolks have been place in the curing mix, sprinkle the remaining curing mix carefully over the top.

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  • As you can see, there is one yolk that broke, it actually broke three times, must have been a bad landing spot or there was a piece of fennel sticking up that punctured it, so I left it to cure. Cover the pan with plastic and place in the refrigerator for five weeks, try not to disturb the eggs during the first week or so.

5 Weeks Later….

  • Dump the mixture out onto some parchment paper  and search through the salt for your egg yolks.

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  • Carefully brush off the excess salt and spices, try to get them as clean as possible, most of them will get grated with the rest of the yolk.

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  • Once cleaned you can reserve for at least two weeks under refrigeration.  When ready to use, grate using a micro-plane, on top of a salad or fish.

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The last time I used the cured egg yolk was on a bone marrow salad.  This batch of cured yolks have a nice fennel flavor, the pepper wasn’t as strong in terms of spice but you could taste the flavor of the pepper.

 
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Posted by on January 23, 2013 in Recipes

 

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OLIVE OIL, SEA SALT, & PEPPER

During culinary school the importance of using salt was drilled into my head from the first day that i stepped into the kitchen. I can remember back in my sauces class when I had to make an orange gastrique, a sweet and sour sauce if you will, for duck, and I was so proud of my accomplishment that I ran over to the chef for him to try it. His response was less than impressed, he asked “did you season this sauce?” I told him “no”, he then proceeded to throw the pot away and told me to start over and to properly season it this time. At this point I realized that whether sweet or savory salt was a key ingredient.

The best way to test salts flavoring abilities is to make a base for creme brulee or ice cream, a nice and rich custard with vanilla, before you turn it into ice cream or creme brulee, taste the base, add a little salt and taste it again, add a little more until you start to notice the flavors of vanilla stand out and the richness of the cream get deeper. This lesson has been very valuable in my career in being able to train my staff properly and to taste food and season it properly.

Aside from salts ability to enhance I have realized, over the years, that salt can do more than enhance favors, sea salts from different regions can create an experience unlike any other. Aside from flavor, sea salts contain different minerals and nutrients that you cannot get from ordinary table salt. The simplicity that is salt can help us live a healthier life, and with OLIVE OIL, SEA SALT, & PEPPER we can .

What I love about this book, from the first few pages that I read, is that it teaches you what I teach the interns that come to my restaurant, in order to eat healthy you need to learn to cook healthy, keep it simple and use what you have, try not to over think it. At our Christmas buffet we had people left and right complementing our baked yams, everyone asked how we did it and my response to them was “Do you have a piece of paper and a pen? You will need olive oil, salt, and pepper”. Their response was always “That’s it?!” and I would reassure them that that was all they needed to cook a great meal. A good steak takes a grill, a good quality well raised cow, salt, pepper, and olive oil. In the summer we go out to our garden to pick fresh arugula that we toss with olive oil, salt and a little lemon. Simplicity is where we need to start, and this book demonstrates how easy it is to cook simple, great tasting food. I feel that this book will provide a great outline for everybody to live by to have a healthier life.

 
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Posted by on January 14, 2013 in Product Reviews

 

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Kumquat Marmalade

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When you are deep into citrus season you need to take advantage of everything that you have, and next to Meyer lemons, kumquats are on the top of the list for must haves during the winter months. This recipe will require a little bit of your time but the finished results is a sweet and tart marmalade with the perfect amount of rind. Kumquats can be eaten fresh, and whole, some have large seeds and others have very small seeds. They have a tart flesh and a very sweet skin and rind, when cooked together they create a perfectly balanced marmalade.

Kumquat Marmalade

1# 4oz Kumquats

1#  Orange Juice

1C  Water

1/2#  Sugar

1/2T  Apple Pectin

The most tedious part about making a marmalade is peeling the oranges and cleaning the pith to ensure that you will not get a bitter product in the end. Kumquats are beneficial in that area as they can be eaten whole and they balance very nicely. They still need to be cleaned of all the seeds and cut into smaller pieces to make a palatable marmalade.

  • Begin by washing your kumquats and quartering them, you can either remove the seeds as you do this or quarter all of them first and then remove the seeds, regardless, it will take a little time.
  • Once they have been cleaned of the seeds, rough chop the kumquats.
  • Combine half of your sugar and all of the apple pectin, set aside.
  • Combine the orange juice, kumquats, water, and the remaining sugar in a large pot, turn the heat on to medium.
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  • Once the marmalade begins to simmer, cook for roughly five minutes, turn down the heat if necessary to maintain a simmer.
  • Check to see if the kumquats are soft, if not continue to simmer until they are.
    Once softened, whisk in the sugar and pectin mix.
  • Simmer for another five minutes and check the consistency on frozen plate. It will set up semi-firm on the plate when ready.
You can draw a line with the spatula and it holds, even when hot, this is how you can tell that your marmalade is ready

You can draw a line with the spatula and it holds, even when hot, this is how you can tell that your marmalade is ready

This plate test shows that the marmalade is ready to come off of the heat.

This plate test shows that the marmalade is ready to come off of the heat.

This marmalade will go great on toast, foie gras, or served on a charcuterie board.

 
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Posted by on January 9, 2013 in Recipes

 

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Roasted Yams with Caramelized Onions and a Nutmeg Cream

The crew at Black Butte Ranch had a great couple of holiday weeks and as the dust settles it is time to play and create new ideas and recipes for the upcoming summer. Before we jump into some new recipes here is one of the more popular ones from our Christmas buffet last year, roasted yams with caramelized onions and a sweet nutmeg cream. This side dish is very easy to make, in fact the most difficult component to make will be the Nutmeg cream, which is a creme anglaise with nutmeg. When yams are in season they are full of sugars that are ready to create a nice crust and a sweet soft center. The use of fresh grated nutmeg is going to define this dish over anything else. Since the day I started cooking I have bought whole spices and a spice grinder and ground them as needed, they last a lot longer and the flavor is unmatched. If and when I make these again I will add pictures.

Nutmeg Creme Anglaise

1C Heavy Cream

1ea Nut of Nutmeg

2.5ea Egg Yolks

1/4C Sugar

  • Start by putting your cream on the stove over medium-high heat until it boils.While you wait for it to boil prepare and ice bath and set a clean (preferably metal) container in it, this is where you will strain your anglaise into.
  • Remove the cream from the heat and grate 1/2 the nutmeg into it with a micro plane.
  • Let stand while you mix your egg yolks and sugar.
  • Using a heat proof spatula mix your egg yolks and sugar.
  • Ladle a small amount of the warm cream into the egg mixture and stir immediately to incorporate. Add another ladle and stir.
  • Take the egg mixture and dump it into the rest of the cream in the pot and return to the stove.
  • If you have experience making anglaise you can use medium to high heat, if this is your first time I recommend low heat, if you loose your focus for a second on high you can curdle the eggs in the sauce.
  • Stir the anglaise with a heat proof spatula until it visually begins to thicken. Pull the spatula out and draw a line using your finger and if it holds then the anglaise is done, if not then cook a little bit more.
  • Once thickened pour through a chinois or china cap into the chilled pan on ice.
  • While this cools, you can begin to prepare the yams.

Caramelized Onions and Roasted Yams

4ea Yams

1ea Red or Yellow Onion

2T Butter

2T Oil

AN S&P

  • Peel and large dice the yams, place in a container with cold water until.ready to roast.
  • Preheat your oven to 350°
  • Cut the ends off of your onion and then cut it in half and julienne.
  • Place a skillet over medium heat and add the butter, once melted add the onions.
  • Cook the onions until they begin to brown and the pan begins to show color, add a tablespoon of water to deglaze the pan and continue to cook the onions until they are the color of caramel.
  • Once the oven has been preheated, drain the yams and toss with oil and S&P, dump the yams onto a roasting pan and place them in the oven.
  • The yams will take about 45 minutes in a convection oven and a little longer in a conventional. Every 10 to 15 minutes you will want to open the oven and stir the yams around so they roast evenly.
  • When you do this check the firmness of the yams, when done they will be very soft.
  • Once the yams are soft add the caramelized onions and cook for another five minutes.
  • Remove the yams from the oven after the five minutes and place them on a platter, Top with your nutmeg creme anglaise and enjoy!
 
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Posted by on January 2, 2013 in Recipes, The Lodge Restaurant

 

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Sous Vide Short Rib with Parsnip and Matsutake Mushrooms

Sous Vide short rib with parsnip puree, white soy and Meyer lemon marinated matsutake mushrooms, cress and a Meyer lemon gribiche.

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In a previous post I went through the process of cooking short ribs slow and low for 72 hours.  Here is a finished product that we served as an appetizer and once seared on all four sides it is warm and tender in the middle and falls apart with a spoon!  To make the short ribs you can follow this link, the Meyer lemon gribiche is a great accompaniment to fish as well and you can see my recipe here, and for the white soy marinade on the matsutake mushrooms you can follow below.

The White soy marinade can be used in many applications, such as lobster, fish, and other vegetables.  It is a very standard vinaigrette that is very light but defined in terms of flavor.  It can also be used as a light dressing on a salad.

White Soy Vinaigrette/Marinade

1/2C  White Soy/Shoyu

1t  Mushroom Powder

2t  Palm Sugar

1/2C  Rice Vinegar

1ea  Meyer Lemon

1/4C  Canola oil

AN  Salt

  • Combine the first four ingredients and mix well with a whisk or fork, if the sugar is not dissolving place the bowl over some heat or in a microwave for a couple of seconds.  Do not heat too much.
  • Zest a Meyer lemon into the liquid followed by the juice.
  • Stream in the canola oil and season with salt

This marinade/dressing works well with fish, mushrooms, light pork dishes, and as a finishing sauce for a stir fry.

 
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Posted by on December 26, 2012 in Recipes

 

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Meyer Lemon Gribiche

 

This sauce is a great accompaniment to fish and if done right it can go with almost any other protein.  It is similar to a remoulade, except your eggs are hard-cooked rather than raw.

 

Meyer Lemon Gribiche

 

3ea  Eggs

 

3t  Stone Ground Mustard

 

1C  Canola Oil

 

1ea  Meyer Lemon

 

2t  Rice Vinegar

 

1T  Chives

 

2t  Tarragon

 

1t  Pink Peppercorns

 

AN  Salt

 

  • Start by boiling some water and cooking the eggs for 10 minutes, this will give you a nice soft-boiled egg.
  • After the 10 minutes of boiling s hock the eggs in ice water to stop them from cooking.
  • Meanwhile, chop the tarragon and chives and set aside.  if you have whole pink peppercorns smash them with a meat mallet or roughly chop them in a spice grinder.  Zest and juice the Meyer lemon and set aside.
  • Once the eggs are cooled, peel and remove the yolk, place the yolk in a bowl and set the whites aside.
  • Chop the whites into small pieces and set aside.

 

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  • Combine the mustard, herbs, egg yolks, and the pink pepper.

 

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  • Mix with a fork until smooth then add the rice vinegar, Meyer lemon zest and juice, continue mixing.

 

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  • Stream in the oil while mixing, you may need someones help so you can hold the bowl and mix while they pour.  The goal here is to emulsify the oil with the egg mixture.
  • Once all of the oil is added, add the egg whites and adjust seasoning with more rice vinegar if needed.

 

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Replace mayo with this gribiche on a sandwich with fresh greens and thin sliced pork, or serve with 72 hour short ribs.

 

 
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Posted by on December 26, 2012 in Recipes

 

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